“Welcome to the neighborhood and to the struggle”: A Day in Cabanyal:

Saturday, 10/20/2010

You Guessed it. Botellon city.

It was indeed an early morning! At 8:30 AM, Fred and I headed to the center (El Centro). On the way over, I couldn’t help but notice plastic bags filled with empty bottles of alcohol – every where! “No worries, they will be collected shortly”. We had a lovely discussion about the Botellón culture here in Spain (For current/former UConn folks, do a quick comparison for me: Spring Weekend vs. Botellon. 

Imagine Spring Weekend more than once per year). Virtually every point Fred made is indeed found on Wikipedia. Well done, Frederic (Frederic is my tandem partner - he is polylingual/quadrilingual and a pursuing two Masters degrees in Gender and Equality Policies + a Multidisciplinary Degree in: Law, Economics, Psychology, Philosophy, and Anthropology)! 

Meet Fred (Frédéric)  and our special surprise from one of the most famous Orxaterias in the city!

Passing the Ruins of the Palacio Real de Viveros (among neat historical sites), we finally arrived to the renowned Mercat Central in search for nothing more than a 5 lb Turkey for our Thanksgiving dinner this Friday!

The Ruins in all their Splendor (Palacio Real de Viveros)

Joaquin Sorolla Bastida, one of the most famous impressionist painters of Valencia!
I have enjoyed at least 3 monuments commemorating the Valencian artist.

Mercat Central, Exterior

Mercat Central, Expansive Interior (Open 8 AM to 2 PM Monday-Saturday)

Turrones: A Big Hit Here (No, I will not be purchasing these for you, father of mine!)

Chufas (Tiger Nuts) What a treat!

A Fruitless effort, this was, however. Turkeys aren’t sold until Christmas time for as you may or may not know Thanksgiving (Dia de accion de gracias) is not celebrated in Spain (for you Fulbrighters who pursue similar holiday feats).

2nd Hand (presumably Illegal) Market. A Direct result of "El Crisis".
People congegrate and sell everything that they do not use anymore.
Anything and everything is sold here - really. NOTHING is far fetched.

 On a positive note:Our Orxata cravings were satiated during our visit. Though, Fred surprised us with Orxata and Farton Artesania (Sweet Bread dipped into Liquid Orxata) just the day before, he opted for sampling a glass of freshly made Orxata. I think he enjoys this heavenly liquid almost as much as I love Chufas (as you already know if you have been following along, these are Tiger Nuts, the main ingredient of Orxata). "No tengo verguenza" (I am not ashamed) - We indulged!

Sporadic FYI: You CAN NOT visit Valencia with out stopping by the narrowest house in Spain (and, quite possibly, the world). 

Location: Plaza Lope de Vega. The narrow house is the red building with black window openings.

How could I forget? (Mom, and fellow consumers of the Beauty Industry will enjoy this, I think). Of course I spent a significant amount of time in a new favorite, Perfumarte (Selling Legal and Potent Imitation Fragrances!) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED by current roommates, Margaux and Chelsea. (Personal Favorites: Diesel’s Fuel for Life; Narcisco Rodriguez’s Narcisco; Paco Rabanne’s Black XS; Georgio Armani’s Armani Code; Cacharel’s Noa).

 

Irresistible Churfas in hand, it was off to the “Cabanyal Vinyetes”/ “Cabanyal Portes Obertes” (Cabanyal Open Doors) Tours (located microseconds from Malvarosa Beach).

Unfortunately, we were a bit sidetracked on the way there. At the Port of Valencia, we passed by an intriguing event hosted by a collection of amiable men: La Tuna de Derecho de Valencia. 

Gargantuan Paella Pan. Indeed, there is a first time for everything!

The group hired a business to make an UNBELIEVABLE amount of paella in a gargantuan pan (my eyes must have been protruding) and served buckets-full of fresh Sangria for students through out Valencia!

I decided to do some research on our new friends. I very much enjoyed reading about the Historical Background offered on their official site: (This slightly reminds me of UConn Greek Life). I also enjoyed skimming through “A Brief Profile”: AH, Street Performances! 
(Noteworthy Nugget of Information: Being a Law Student in Valencia is a prerequisite if one aspires to be a ‘Tuna’)!

Now, With out further ado...

Welcome to Cabanyal 

Let’s get informed, shall we?

The historic neighbourhood of El Cabanyal, Valencia, is under threat by a plan for a large avenue which would cross it at right angles, dividing it into two and transforming it in such a way as to imply the beginnings of its future destruction. Faced with this situation, citizens’ groups, cultural associations, university bodies and many public figures have voiced strongest opposition to the plan.

Advocating with two residents/activists (Caterina, Lorena), Fred and Gaby

The Cabanyal is one of the three districts that make up the historic centres of the City of Valencia. Because of its street design, and the popular modernist style of its houses, it was considered worthy of being registered as an Asset of Cultural Interest (B.I.C.) by the cultural department of the Valencian regional government in 1993.

Map of the Protected Historic Centre of the Cabanyal

In yellow the earliest nucleus of the Cabanyal

In orange the expansion of the Cabanyal declared an Asset of Cultural Interest.
In red the area affected by the plan to prolong Blasco Ibañez

On May 25th 2001, the Special Intervention Plan for the Cabanyal (Plan Especial de Intervención) was approved by Valencia City Council, with the majority Popular Party voting in favour and all the other parties of the municipality voting against the plan. The plan implies the prolongation of Blasco Ibañez Avenue, through the district, with a width of 148m, 48m being used as thoroughfares and the rest for the construction of six storey buildings. The project would entail dividing the district in two, the destruction of 1651 houses – many of which have been given the status of ‘Special Protection’- and the displacement of 1200 – 1300 families in the neighbourhood. The present householders are being offered very low prices under compulsory purchase orders and the same land is then offered to private building contractors to build and sell at market price. 

Particularly potent. Here, my dear friends, exists a:

“...Neighborhood Struggling for Survival and Life…Hope is not for sale, the people are not for sale, the houses are not for sale. Nobody has thrown in the towel, nor buried the hatchet.

Only one worthwhile future: El Cabanyal restored and in peace.

Welcome to the neighborhood and to the struggle.”

CABANYAL – CANYAMELAR: CULTURAL PROPERTY ENDANGERED

Since the end of XIX century, Cabanyal – Canyamelar is regarded as the fishing district of Valencia, the neighborhood by the sea in Valencia City (Spain). It still retains a gridded urban system because of the “barracas”, old typical buildings from Valencia.

A Baraca-Style Home (early 1900s). Very common within this town of fishermen.
The roof was originally made of straw/hay.
It is amazing how resilient these homes have been (see video for some great documentation!)

Again we see the eternal confrontation: between heritage conservation and speculative development of a city. Since the last century, the people of Cabanyal have lived with the threat of the expansion of Blasco Ibáñez Avenue. With the construction of the railway station in Serrería Avenue, we felt that history of this avenue ended. It was the desired connection of Valencia with Sea Villages.

The project of extending Blasco Ibáñez Avenue to the sea destroys a historic set of ancient buildings. Furthermore, the project also destroys a way of life, of social and human relationships, a culture of special character because of its relationship with the sea.

Since then the neighbors of Cabanyal – Canyamelar – Cap de França have not stopped fighting for their rights and homes, requesting a Plan of Conservation and Rehabilitation of the district without any response by the municipality of Valencia, which has not even agreed to meet the representatives from the neighborhood.

….

The preservation and rehabilitation of Cabanyal-Canyamelar would mean for the City of Valencia the chance to enjoy and have a unique cultural centre in Europe that can develop itself into a great touristic attraction and moreover, a quarter with future with an urban carcass respectful towards its environment, tradition and art. The destruction of this quarter would mean for Valencia to loose again a tremendous part of its identity.

“Save the Cabanyal”. Represent, ladies

On 22 april 1998 various parties (neighbors, tradesmen, political opposition and cultural organizations) have created the platform “Salvem El Cabanyal” (“Save the Cabanyal”) to stop the expansion of Blasco Ibáñez. Since this day action against the destruction has been taken by the platform “Salvem El Cabanyal”. The first event was the celebration of three public dinners in one of the places of the quarter during June and July. About 4000 people signed the petition against the plan of the local government.

"Salvem El Cabanyal"

Some residents (conveniently not residing in the area that would be directly affected) support the movement to destroy thousands of homes in Cabanyal in favor of creating a long stretch to the beach from the Blasco Ibanez Avenue.

 The residents of El Cabanyal who shared their homes and experiences with us were incredible? Honestly, what’s better than getting out there and meeting awe-inspiring locals fighting relentlessly for what they believe is right? That’s right. Nothing. 

Our new friend (and lifelong resident of Cabanyal) Francesc. In the middle of our tour, the vivacious man left and within 30 seconds, came back with a sweet tangerine and a piece of his own Malvrosa plant from his terrace, so that I may "plant [my] own!")

Movie Time! http://www.cabanyal.com/nou/videos/

Now if you’ll excuse me, Ms. Margaux Pierre is making yet another delectable home cooked Haitian meal (I take credit for my “Garlic peeling” contributions). 

After searching far and wide, Ms. Pierre has found her beloved (Goya) Adobo.
Her meals are now complete, ladies and gentlemen.