12/21/2010
First and foremost, HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM! YOU ARE LOOKING FANTASTIC AT 35*!
Off to Italy for the Holiday
Meet Riccardo (prounounced Ric-cardo)
[With the purest of intentions] “You Americans have a problem with that. You never pronounce the double C’s separately”
So, on the flight to Italy I met a quite interesting soul. Riccardo, 19, rather tall stature, deep, eccentric, puppy dog eyes, is from Florence, Italy and his currently studying in London (with no intention of returning). He is the first person who resembles the ‘starved artist’ stereotype. I find him absolutely fascinating! His English is pretty much impeccable because “I’ve had English speaking nannies since I was about 4 years old. That’s the trick you know” [Yes, Yes! I studied this in Linguistic 101 and through 4 years of HDFS. We (I) talked about the “critical period” for a bit. I am not sure if he cared to absorb the information he was unexpectedly inundated with, but…I laid it on him. It’s just so fascinating) So yes, It’s fantastic that this young man has a British accent and can speak Italian perfectly. It’s quite lovely. In the course of a few hours, we touched upon some pretty great topics of discussion (heartbreak, the temporary cure to heartbreak: distractions, one’s purpose in life: “to be happy”, music, the definition of love: hardest question ever. What actually sparked this discussion is a book (a rather quick read) I’m currently invested in, entitled love (luv) n. – the puffball that I am. Porter Sorensen Porter shares both her personal experiences and rather extensive empirical research on love (beginning from the streets of New York!)
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| A Heavy Topic of Discussion |
I’ve settled for Helen Fisher’s take on it: [Love is] a fundamental human drive. Like the craving for food and water, and the maternal instinct, it is a physiological need, a profound urge.”
We spoke of the work of Dante (Wow) who he thinks had the meaning of love down PAT (centuries ago). “l’amor che move il sole e li oltre stella”
“Love the moves the sun and the other stars”
Wow, love really is the most complicated word in the English language.
Arrival in Pisa!
I still regret missing the Torre di Piso (The Leaning Tower Of Pisa!) The MINUTE I arrive in Pisa I feel unbelievably comfortable. I feel at home (very strange feeling really): relaxed and calm. My beautiful cousin, Diana, came to pick me up at the Pisa airport and we took the train back to her lovely, lovely home (I could not leave with out taking photos of each room. The color scheme and spatial arrangement are too perfect to me).
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| My beautiful family |
It was so nice to finally catch up with her. I hadn’t seen her since I was 6 years old! My goodness, is this woman an angel. Hands down: one of the kindest people I will ever know – to every one (AND I happen to be related to her). No fascade. Just a great disposition, a fantastic set of parents and a heart of gold. Are you a saint, D?
She introduced me to the "Zone Diet" (Dad!), which I found interesting until I realized that it really is about portion control and focusing on protein, vegetables and whole grains (common sense stuff that most do not take into consideration). “All these healthy lifestyle choices go out the window during the holidays, Adaliss. I’m not worried. I just enjoy!” Her husband, Marco, is also quite fabulous. He unearthed a Guide to Florencia (in Spanish!) amidst his overwhelming library (I am talking masses of books. This man loves to read) for me to borrow for a few days. He has NO idea how much that meant to me. My niece (well, technically second cousin) Rebecca (2.5 years old!) is wonderful. She is bright, stunning, charismatic, has a higher emotional intelligence score than the average person for sure and just so much fun! I couldn’t be happier. This is such a treat. I love it: Diana tries to speak to Rebecca in Spanish as often as possible. Rebecca always answers in Italian, but it’s still a great thing Diana’s doing. (“Critical period”!). All she needs now is some English language immersion ;-)
I think it is great that Marco’s mother and his sister live in the same complex. Their home is literally a minute from Diana’s home. I wasn’t surprised to learn that they too are quite a lovely clan of Italians.
I slept like a baby that night in that heavenly home and woke up uber early the next day for Day 1 in Firenze (Florencia). It was pouring; nothing that an umbrella can’t fix. After (so generously) being dropped off at the local train station, I embarked on my first day trip in Italia!
I met Juliana, a sweet and helpful Peruvian woman living and working here in Florencia. I was grateful for the few tips she shared with me. Having perused through the handly Guide Book of Florencia and visiting the Tourist Office, I felt both prepared and a bit overwhelmed by all of the amazing things to do and see in Florencia. 3 days is certainly not enough. (I can’t imagine what Rome will be like, given its sheer relative size).
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| Juliana and I |
I find that I genuinely enjoy just visiting churches and buildings here in Italy. I can seriously just walk around all day, snapping shots of the exterior and interior masterpieces that make up the unique personality of a given city. “Oh my gawsh” the things I was about to see!! BRILLIANT. CAPTIVATING. Just a few words that came to mind. There is CERTAINLY nothing like this in the states.
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| Many a decadent treat in Italia. Thinking of a few people in particular ;-) |
As I meandered through the “walking” city (a characteristic I am quite fond of), I could not stop listening to the local Italians [not that I understood a single sentence they said]. The language is just so beautiful. In fact, one of my favorite authors, Elizabeth Gilbert, argues that it is “one of the most beautiful languages on Earth”. I actually wouldn’t mind being an Au Pair for a bit in Italy, as crazy as it sounds.
I feel so safe here. Though it is very much a typical tourist hot spot, Florencia has a very relaxing ambience. It is also so easy to navigate with a city map alone – a perk for orientation-less people such as myself. I am starting to LIKE maps, which should be a pleasant surprise for some of you folks!
I met a few more helpful people along the way. “Shout out” to the beautiful Elena from Bologna and Rachel from Boston!
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| Meet Rachel! |
Rachel, Art History major at John Hopkins University, is one of those magnetic people; very charismatic! I met her in a lovely vegetarian restaurant (Ruth’s Restaurant) next to the city’s lovely Synagogue. After studying for a term in Paris she and her mother decided to take a 3 day trip in Italy. She left her mother in Rome and headed directly for Florencia and Vienna (on her own! Isn’t she great?). I am so jealous – from here, she will go directly to Israel for 2 weeks! I find her story so great! She lived with a Jewish Moroccan family while studying (“you know…for the holidays and all that stuff. It’s just much easier.”) Interesting factoid: France has the one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. Why? There were many Jews living in Northern Africa who, in response to Anti-Semitism moved from Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria to France. Needless to say, Rachel and I talked for a few hours – I enjoyed every second, particularly how much we identified with one another! It was nice to meet some one who can keep up with my (to put it nicely) spontaneity during conversation. Some tend to get overwhelmed by my tendency to ask a myriad (sometimes unrelated) questions in one sitting.
We recounted our day trips to one another and found that we were equally taken aback by quite a few sites (by no means is this a finite list):
El Duomo: Pictures just DO NOT cut it. I literally turned the corner and…BAM….there it was. I was definitely not ready to be acquainted. I can’t even imagine what love at first site is like. This must come close. I just froze – I probably looked like a complete fool. All I remember is repeating “Oh. My. Gosh.” over and over again. I probably didn’t blink for a few minutes. Imagine what this place looked like when it was in its ‘prime’ (freshly constructed). Simply captivating. Rachel explained to me that the exterior is made of different types of marble! Talk about high quality work.
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| The Twin Bronze Doors: A Hit! |
Michaelangelo’s David There are two replicas in the city, but are rendered obsolete in comparison to the original David (currently in the Galleria dell'Accademia).
No statue is re perfect.
“The key to the David's appeal is Michelangelo's magnificent projection of man at his best - vigorously healthy, beautiful, rational, competent. It expresses a heroic view of man and of a universe auspicious to his success. Such a projection is of immeasurable worth to anyone who holds such a sense of life - whether that person lived 500 years ago or lives today.”
My visit to the Gallery was totally unplanned. I bumped into a woman Alessandra on my way to the Piazza de Pitti. She claimed to be an employee at the Galleria dell'Accademia and begged me to stop by before returning home for the day (“Just ask for Alessandra”, she said). So..I stopped by and it turns out this woman des not even exist! Luckily, as I finished my chai, I hit off with the Museum security guards and staff (Andrea, you are incredible individual, mister)! They allowed me to enter (F.O.C.) so that I could then become acquainted with the renowned David. He really is M-A-J-E-S-T-I-C. It’s unreal. I stood there for 15 minutes admiring the quintessential man (David & Goliath anyone?). People pay at least 12 Euro to see this beautiful representation – oh and is it worth it, “seguramente”.
"In every block of marble I see a statue as plain as though it stood before me, shaped and perfect in attitude and action. I have only to hew away the rough walls that imprison the lovely apparition to reveal it to the other eyes as mine see it."—Michelangelo
Sinagoga: I was so busy chatting it up with Rachel that I missed it! (Closes at 3 PM, for future reference). I guess I’ll just have to come back!
So, at some point during my tour, I started to tear up. I was in the middle of San Felice church. I started praying for every single person that came to mind (which took much longer than I thought. It felt so great! You should try it!) I literally crying in the middle of one of the hundreds of churches I walked past through out the day. Indeed, these were tears of joy. I was loving every second of my church visits: the colors, statues protruding from the walls, the art! It’s incredible how well they’ve preserved everything! There is SO much to see in Florence alone. When it started to get dark, I decided to head back home. I was pleasantly not surprised that a local woman noticed me struggling with inserting my money into the ticket machine and donated 5 minutes helping me! I’m not sure if this how people are here in Florence (super helpful) or if its simply because “’tis the season”. As if I weren’t grateful enough, along comes Claudia, angelic 10 year resident of Florencia who moved here from Romania. Claudia has this warm, genuine smile/way about her that can move any one to action. Turns out she has family in Chicago. When I asked her to come visit me in the US, she said “Why not?” =) I have a new friend. Yay! 5 minutes later, I met Roberte, a nurse from Venice. Within ten minutes of conversation, she invited me to come visit her whenever I wished! How sweet!
They day just kept getting better and better. I came home to my favorite snack/foods: Goat cheese, Fage yogurt, Green apples and almonds! Later in the evening, D and Marco had company over! They seem to always have friends over the house for dinner. It’s really refreshing. Tonight’s guests were a lovely family: another Italian/Latina couple. I love their story: He came to Venezuela for vacation over 15 years ago, he met her at the airport…and he never came back (Well, until Chávez came into power. Needless to say, they bounced out of there together.) Their son’s name is Michaelangelo (Miguel Angel). I like this name – A LOT. I also like the name Alessandro/a.
That evening, Diana made a stellar guacamole dip that I feel compelled to share with you lovely people. It’s quite simple: avocado, onions (to your taste), tomato, chili (habanero or fresh jalapeno), salt and lemon.
The next day, Diana introduced me to Siena (about one hour from her home). We passed by Chianti (home to the most popular wine in Italy!) on the way over as well as San Gimignano (full of towers). “Florencia is to Renaissance as Siena is to Medieval”, D posits. I can’t agree more. Both cities are beautiful in such different ways. I had no idea that the Renaissance was born in Florencia (thank you Familia Medici).
What beautiful pieces of history did I meet today?
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| Piazza del Campo |
~ Piazza del Campo (Click):
~ D told me all about a biannual (and pretty elaborate) horserace in Siena, called the Palio di Siena. According to Wiki, “The Palio di Siena (known locally simply as Il Palio) is a horse race held twice each year on July 2 and August 16 in Siena, Italy, in which ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the appropriate colours, represent ten of the seventeen Contrade, or city wards. The Palio held on July 2 is named Palio di Provenzano, in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano, who has a church in Siena. The Palio held on August 16 is named Palio dell'Assunta, in honour of the Assumption of Mary.A magnificent pageant, the Corteo Storico, precedes the race, which attracts visitors and spectators from around the world.
The race itself, in which the jockeys ride bareback, circles the Piazza del Campo, on which a thick layer of dirt has been laid, three times and usually lasts no more than 90 seconds. It is not uncommon for a few of the jockeys to be thrown off their horses while making the treacherous turns in the piazza, and indeed it is not unusual to see unmounted horses finishing the race without their jockeys.” See what goes down. (People actually rent out Balconies for this event!)
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Piazza del Duomo: 200+ years to construct.
“Imagine all of the wear this cathedral has witnessed" |
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| Banco Monte del Paschi di Siena: probably one of the most beautiful banks I’ve ever seen |
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| Romuo e Remo (Romulus and Remus): if you don’t know the story. Get familiar |
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| St. Caterina (casa – Sanctuario): “I loovvveee goollllld” (FB, Austin Powers) |
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| San Domenico (Basilica): It was FREEZING in there. Enormou |
Dynamite Restaurant that reinforced my belief that Italy does have, by far, the best olive oil I’ve ever consumed. After searching far and wide for a restaurant that tickled our fancy (after all, I should know that you “do not enter a restaurant unless something about it inspires you.” So very much worth it, Diana.
I can’t believe what an incredible week I’ve had thus far. Last night was fun! Marco and Diana had yet another amiable set of friends over. Billy Bob (Frederico) and his girlfriend, Georgia (you’d never guess her age! What do they put in the water over here?), was so sweet!
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| Marco, Frederico, Georgia, Diana and Rebecca :-) |
Marco brought Pizza for every one (an actual pizza for each person). This is apparently common in Italy. The difference between Pizza in Italy and in the US is that it’s “thin crust and so much more delicious”.
A recommended Café with FREE WIFI: Café Deluxee.
12/25/2010: Christmas in Firenze
I feel like all I did on Christmas Day was eat. Diana prepared a delicious meal: Eggplant, tomato sauce and mozzarella appetizer, lightly breaded pan fried Salmon (rebanadas) with herbs, onions and olive oil, purple cabbage (ensalada de la morada), local olives, the region’s finest Olive Oil (Incredible), and quite a bit of queso de oveja. I may be addicted; and of course white wine.
It was nice to bond with the immediate family for the day. We watched a movie, I wrote postcards, uploaded some incredible photos! I received some rather unexpected gifts not only from D and Marco, but from his side of the family as well. It was so very surprising. I had already received my present: the opportunity to stay with my cousin (who I hadn’t seen for years!) in her beautiful home in Italy!
So, 8 PM rolls are around and we are off to eat even more food. AH. It was so lovely! My first traditional Italian Christmas. It was PHENOMENAL. I had a really good time. There were 24 guests present.
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| Bacalao a La Diana, Tipo Vizaina** |
Diana’s dish was (hands down) the best of the night. We all devoured it! Oh my..and with out shame!
Christmas Cena (Dinner) Menu:
Appetizers/1st Plate
v Crostini (Variety)
o Higado de Pollo en paté (Chicken Liver) – Don’t knock it until you try it!
o Pollo y mayonesa (Chicken and Mayonaise)
o “Germano” (es ave-cacería)
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| Hongos Porcini (My favorite; This mushroom is specific to Italy!) |
v Lasagne al Salmone
v Tortellini el Caldo de Res (Soup)
v Bacalao a La Diana, Tipo Vizaina**
This recipe takes a few days. In increments of course. All I know is that it included walnuts, almonds, a spicy herb, tomatoes, peppers, onions
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| The Italians LOVE their Roast Beef |
2nd Plate
v Galantina (De Pollo)
v Cinghiale Arrosto (jabalí al Horno)
v Cinghiale Dolce-Forte (jabalí en salsa aria)
v Piselli (Chicharos-peas)
v Ensalada Russa (Very common here)
v Ensalada Basico
v Tiramisú
A Quote that has resonated with me this month. Enjoy!
Liz Gilbert, Eat, Pray, Love "Happiness is the consequence of personal effort. You fight for it, strive for it, insist upon it...And once you have achieved a state of happiness, you must never become lax about maintaining it. You must make a mighty effort to keep swimming upward into that happiness forever, to stay afloat on top of it.”
