“Come si dice”: Bologna la Bella

A few months ago, Chelsea and I decided to book a trip to Bologna to visit our dear friend, Francesco, and freshly acquired clan of Bologna Cronies. I couldn't be more pleased with this decision. 

Talk about a brilliant way to kick off Spring. As if Fallas weren't spectacular enough. I am CERTAIN that this trip was my 23^rd Birthday Gift in disguise.   I can’t even describe how wonderful it was to feel the warmth evoked by genuine “family bonding” again [Well, for an extended period of time] 


I apologize for being redundant in the upcoming line; but the Serafino clan are the most generous, charismatic, loving, hysterical, lively and simply good natured people. 

Franny and the girls in front of the beautiful San Luca

Who's Franny? "Un Pan de Vida". That's exactly what he is. Francesco is a charming, simpatico chico; A former Erasmus student, living in Valencia. He's certainly evolved into 'the brother I never had' within the tremendously short period of time we’ve known one another.

Sandro, The Italian Don Juan

Just a FEW of our Bologna amigos. ALWAYS an interesting experience with these people

We always have a great time with Francesco and his seemingly inexhaustible number of friends. We went to an interesting bar one night. I was ITCHING for a hot tea, but I abstained. I made a few new friends; Francesco & Co. how many friends do you have anyway? I feel like we are always meeting someone new – on the street walking to the pub, in the pub, at the concert, what have you.

San Luca was BEAUTIFUL. A 20 minute
HIKE from Francesco's neighborhood apparently.
"That's not Bologna, Chelsea...THAT'S Bologna"

Francesco and his girlfriend Chiara, accompanied us on a lovely tour of Bologna, [It was even better a second time] whilst PATIENTLY teaching us some new Italian vocabulary. I think Chelsea has fallen in love with yet another language. 

San Luca

After a day of practicing, committing way too many phonetic errors, and attempting to develop helpful learning aids: Chelsea and I FINALLY learned a few basic words i.e. SINISTRA (left), DESTRA (right), and dritto (straight on); I LOVE the way "Bene, Bene" sounds (Vale, Vale or Ok. Ok/Very Good, then).


Gosh. Those few days were ALL so lovely. One of my favorite memories of the weekend definitely involved being sprawled across the grass of a beautiful and quite populated park near the center.


Apparently, I'm not the only cool/noteworthy person with crazy hair.

This would be the crazy haired
 lead singer, Michele Salvemini  (I think we resemble
 one another, don't you?)

YES, INDEED! Concert #2 since I've been in Europe!
Chelsea, Francesco, Chiara and myself.

  About one month ago, Francesco invited us to "a concert". I mean, why not? I acquiesced. I didn’t know what to expect exactly, but I was pleasantly surprised.

The group: CAPAREZZA.
(You can Google Translate it, as well. At least check out the photos!)
Genre: ITALIAN RAP!
CONTENT: Life and Politics in Italy.  

Italian rap is AWESOME, in spite of the fact that I had not the slightest clue what was being said. Chelsea even video recorded one of our favorites (the only word I honestly know is "Legalize"). It's a catchy song!

I was grateful that Francesco and Chiara donated a few stanzas of their favorite songs [judging from Francesco's ability to cite almost very word verbatim, I deduced that he clearly enjoys this group] to explain the underlying political/social meaning.


The ‘After party’, [I’m actually not quite sure how to coin the post-concert experience] was hysterical. Francesco, you sneaky man. I was wondering why we were waiting around after the concert ended. 

Always meeting new people (well, except Matteo!)

Yes, within an hour of the concert’s finale, we were pleasantly surprised to see some of the boys and a few new faces. Again, we had a BLAST. Period.
Onto a few of my new FAVORITE people:


MARCHELLO! Quite possibly one of the finest hosts and greatest Cooks I’ve encountered yet. It was a bit uncanny: he reminds me so much of my dad! 
I CHALLENGE any one to a cook-off with this man.
The man would not let us help with anything. I felt terrible.
Oh, and don’t get me started on how hilarious Franny’s mom is! What a fun woman!

She's hysterical! ABSOLUTELY brilliant.

Hands down, BEST SWORDFISH preparer goes to Mr. Serafino.

Per usual, I couldn't help but take pictures of EVERYTHING. I'll spare you with regard to my new - and very appropriate - nickname in the Serafino home.

It is 'imperative' that I stop through Bologna if I am to visit Venice.
If not, this individual, commonly referred to as 'The Black Mamba' or 'Chida', will be
dissapointed. Gabriele is also one of the nicer people this world has to
 offer. How fortunate are we?

Now, let’s talk about Saint Chiara (featured above several times), our very own ANGEL on Earth. Francesco, where did you find this one? In a nutshell, our newfound Italian chum is a piece of heaven on Earth. Thanks for sharing, Francesco. Though, you aren’t so bad yourself. I'm actually planning a trip to Venice in late May to visit for the weekend! This is how much I adore these people. Simply can not get enough, I tell you! 

As you can imagine, it was a slightly disheartening departure. I did not want it to end, but am so very thankful for the opportunity to experience the beauty of Bologna once again!

Chelsea Dixon Quotes: 
"We said our sad goodbyes, and it's possible we may have cried in the middle of the airport."
Literally 5 minutes after bidding farewell:  "Let's book our next flight the MINUTE we get home."

VLC on Falla(s), you say? 2011

Fallas. Oh, boy.

Perhaps it is more appropriate to start with an introduction. Quite honestly, I don’t think any introduction I (or really any one for that matter) can offer will do this annual event justice.


Top Fallas in the 2011 (Click 1 & 2. Take a gander, will you.)

1. Convento de Jerusalen
2. Almirante Cadarso – Conde Altea
3. Nou Campanar
4. Cuba Literato Azorin
5. L’Antiga de Campanar
6. Plaza del Pilar
7. Exposiciò Micer Masco
8. Archiduque Carlos – Chiva
9. Na Jordana
10. Reino de Valencia
11. Sueca Literato Azorín
12. La Merced

 A personal favorite!

FIRST PLACE! MAN VERSUS "LA NATURALEZA" (Convent Jerusalem)

How could I not? This was great!

I was coerced to play with petardos (firecrackers)
Thank you, Prosper/Dixon Coalition
(Great Documentation Posted on Chels' Blog)

The past few weeks/month I have done quite a bit of informal research on the history of and the culture that is FALLAS here in Valencia. Though I considered myself to have been more or less knowledgeable of what Fallas are all about BEFORE the big week  (yes, I said WEEK. Not a few days, but months to a year of preparation is devoted to this quite-frankly minimally promoted holiday), NO amount of preparation could suffice.

FALLAS truly is ORGANIZED CHAOS.

It is magnificent. Roads within the city are completely inaccessible during the celebration! Imagine hundreds, NAY THOUSANDS, of people walking the streets at all hours of the day. It is a beautiful thing, really. Many from neighboring European countries, actually, which I found interesting.

This pictures speaks for itself. That's Fallas for ya.

Before I dive into FALLAS at SCHOOL,  I think I should fill you in. I’ll be as pithy as possible. Promise. 

The Dealio: FALLAS 411

What are Fallas? These BEAUTIES are actually gargantuan models made from papier mache, wood and wax – typically characaturing Spanish social and political current affairs. Most take approximately ONE YEAR to construct!

The Fallas are burnt the evening of March 19^th in (what many have deduced anyway is) a FIESTA of fire, fireworks and of course religious significance. 

Ruben, Rosemarie, Chelsea and I loving
every minute of the Firework Show

BE COGNIZANT of firecrackers being thrown intermittently by CHILDREN (yes many of which <10 years of age) and for the ground to shake [generously attributed to the power of the inconceivably well executed fireworks display which begins at midnight.]
The Origin? (Couldn’t help it!) There are a few theories regarding the origins of Fallas.

1.      The festivals have been celebrated in Valencia since the Medieval Ages when carpenters would light bonfires on March 19th, which is Saint Joseph’s (San Jose/San Josep) Day. FYI: This is indeed the Valencia’s Patron Saint. What is more, Saint Joseph's Day is Father’s Day all around Spain! Get this FALLAS, FATHER’S DAY, SAN JOSE’S DAY!

2.      The ritual of generating bonfires with the intention of honoring Saints came from pagan tradition, which the Church welcome and personalized to their own interests (for a lack of a better word), simply because their fame made banning them simply UNFEASIBLE.

The 7 phases of Fallas:
I was so excited! The city is literally all “decked out” with decorations &  fallas. The local community REALLY gets into this – Every one comes out to play. Where have you all been hiding?
In a single week the following unfolds:
1. Nomination and public announcement of the Fallas Queens (full time position; all year long they are charge with the responsibility form part of the luminaries welcomed to Valencia to partake in local and regional occasions).
2.  Let’s make it OFFICIAL with The Exaltation: Official start of FALLAS on the last Sunday of Feburary (La Despertà). A parade is held to AWAKEN Valencia! VENGA!

Torres de Serrano. Where the party's at (begins) the last Sunday of February!

3. La Cridà. Later on in the night  the opening ceremony is held. Where? Torres de Serrano (merely 20 minutes from my house on foot!)

At La Crida with friend, Ruben.
I couldn't believe how many people came out! "You haven't seen ANYTHING yet". He was right.

Not nearly as much noise is made from that point on. Well, that’s until March 1^st– the beginning of Valencia’s daily mascletas. Where? PLAZA DEL AYUNTAMIENTO. Where else? Immerse yourselves for a moment. 

I will NEVER forget this feeling.
"Keep your mouth open and don't plug your ears."

  4. The Cavalcade of the Ninot (Cabalgata):
“Corpus Christi Day, Sunday, at noon, after the pealing of the bells from the Miguelete Tower and the Pontifical Mass, the Cabalgata del Convite (Invitation Cavalcade), leaving from the square known as Plaza de Manises, begins. In this cavalcade curious characters parade and the dances, such as Els Cavallets (The Merry-Go-Rounds), Els Pastorets (The Shepherds) or La Magrana (The Pomegranate), are performed, the most original of all of them is the dance performed by the Moma and the Momos which symbolises the fight between the seven capital sins and virtue in which finally prevails the good.
[Then comes the]...Degolla (Throat-cutting) which symbolises Herod's guard fulfilling the mission to "execute" the innocents. These characters, wearing black masks and carrying a plastic stick and a sack full of sweets embark on it with "blows" to the people while throwing sweeties into the air, to which the public responds by throwing bowls of water at them from the windows, in the popular banyà (bath), which is spectacular as it passes through the streets of Cabillers and Avellanas.
Late in the afternoon the bells of the Miguelete announce the Solemn Procession that at 7pm sets off from the Apostles' Door of the Cathedral. In it numerous characters from the Old and the New Testament travel round the old quarter of the city in a colourful and imaginative parade and they accompany the monumental custodia from the Cathedral of Valencia.” http://www.valencia-cityguide.com/tourist-information/leisure/festivals/feast-of-corpus-christi.html
5. The Offering of Flowers (La Ofrenda): Very emotional time for many Falleras, I must say. One by one, Fallas through out Valencia walk through the city (a commissions/Falla may walk for two hours to reach La Plaza de la Virgen)

Now THIS  is an offering, people

Ms. Molly and I
La Plaza de la Virgen

Much Better documentation: http://www.web-valencia.com/valencia-fallas-offering.htm

I found my FALLERAS/FALLERO!
Carla, one of my favorite students outside of El Cole
and her lovely parents!

6. The Planta. When the party really starts, in my opinion. Now I know why Valencia was teeming with visitors on March 15^th – they were adamant about passing all FIVE (sleepless) days of Fallas in Valencia! The Chief celebrations start March 15^th, when all the FALLAS commissions (also called Fallas typically constituted by residents through Valencia neighborhoods/zone) set up their models. In hours, the city is teeming with UNBELIEVABLE works of art! One can spend an entire day walking around the city, marvelling at the innovative and incomparable skill placed into these monuments (Apparently they were even more intense three years ago. I can NOT even imagine!)
7. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, La Cremá: (personally) the height of Las Fallas!

Pre-Crema! Squirming with Anticipation, we walked the streets minutes before Valencia was aflame.

It was rather toasty. We loved it! Yes, this is an ENORMOUS flame fire directly behind us!

LOYAL BOMBEROS (some hailing from Barcelona)

..Getting warmed up

 The beautiful giants are ignited on March 19^th (recall: SAN JOSE’S DAY). Interestingly enough, the very last Fallas to go down are the recipients of PRIZES (category-specific prizes are administered). One “ninot” (Do you remember PACO, our own ninot in the apartment?) is saved annually (from being lit) and later featured at the Museum of the Ninot. 

At about 10 PM this year (until well after 1 AM), Valencia quite literally went up flames whilst 300+ fires were elaborately ignited throughout our beautiful home (city of Valencia, that is). It was an experience the girls and I will never forget, I am sure. EVER.

INCREDIBLE SOURCE OF INFORMATION for those interested in diving into FALLAS 2012:
http://www.24-7valencia.com/fallasessentials.html

(You may just bump into me!)

Mustn't forget to mention my very first Buñuelo making party!
Our lovely neighbors invited Chelsea and me over to make authentic, Buñuelo and Valor Chocolate with
their sweet Valencia Grandmother! I admit a few came out looking more like chicken wings than anything else, but hey - A for Effort!

A Few Recuerdos from FALLAS AT SCHOOL.

Months of Preparation, I tell you.

It was so nice to be a part of my own "Falla"! The school always makes me feel so welcome.

2010 WORLD CUP CHAMPS IN GODELLA? Stupendous Work Grade 2 (GRADE 2!!) & Carmen

I arrived to school at 9 AM to be flowered with FALLAS gifts (HANDMADE FALLAS PINS) and attire. If you want to be really Valencian, get yourself a blusón and scarf. The Blusón is an overshirt, which apparently originates from England in the 19th century [usually black or a denim blue]. It is worn with a blue and white checked neck scarf.
Shout out to one of our Faculty, Jesus, for a job well done on the BARRANQUET Bike FALLA.

CHECK IT OUT!
Each class rocked its own "Falla" Pin!

A few of us passed an hour or so cutting up and serving Ensaimadas con ChocolateI could not believe all of the sweets at our disposal on this single day: Churros con Chocolate, Bunuelo (Handmade by Vicenta. Excellent Work!) and Ensaimadas!
Yay for sky rocketing sugar levels and Elementary School students!

One of my favorites before the imitation MASCLETA
(All students blow up a row of balloons and simultaneously proceed to POP them)!
YES, LIVE SPONGE BOB SQUARE PANTS!

Check out the Video of OUR CREMA! Mind you (relative to a REAL Crema featured during LAS FALLAS en Valencia), I would like to share our school's OWN version (low grade, but equally entertaining with over 100 elated children around you) of la CREMA!

Right before LA CREMA. BEAUTIFUL, wasn't it.
I was so impressed by our school's faculty, staff and students! Such dedication!

Enjoy! GO RAFA for igniting the flame!

 
Kudos to HOLAVALENCIA.NET for the following tips:
“First off: this festival is not for everyone. If you can’t tolerate noise and firecrackers, then you’d be well advised to stay away. As a matter of fact, many Valencians detest Fallas and vacate the city as the hordes of revelers arrive. Before I moved to Valencia I wasn’t much of a firecrackers fan, but you get used to them. Especially after that first mascletà!
About mascletàs: Don’t go if you have problems with your ears. They’re extremely loud, even if you’re prepared.  If you’re unsure whether you’ll like it, I recommend watching from the northern end of Plaza de l’Ayuntamiento. You can always get closer. If you’re a daredevil or hate your eardrums, show up 20 minutes before 2pm and claim a front-row spot. Actually, for the last 5 mascletàs, make that an hour early — these are the most popular and the plaza will be packed.
Be warned of Street Mascletàs!!!! These are smaller and look less threatening than the large city-sponsored ones, but they are far more intense. Long pants to protect yourself from shrapnel (really!) and sunglasses aren’t a bad idea. Above all — if it gets too loud, don’t stick your finger in your ears. This prevents the regulation of air pressure and could damage your eardrum. The trick is to cover your whole ear with your hand and keep your mouth slightly open.
Try to take a siesta. After the 2pm Mascletà, eat and rest up so you’re ready to go out again around 6. With luck, you’ll have energy enough to stay out until the early morning hours — just like a real Valencian!”

Ah! The Sunday after Fallas weekend. What a wonderful way to finish off the celebration.
Chelsea, Molly and I at Parque Viveros: Can you say RECUPERATION?

My First Visit to "the City of Love"

After almost 10 hours of travel (Pamplona to Madrid; Madrid to Valencia via train & finally from Valencia to Paris via – your friend and mine – Ryan Air), I was slightly exhausted, but nevertheless ECSTATIC to have finally arrived in Paris.

Two days later, I’m back up in the air recounting an incredible weekend..

Marc and Haejin. I am a BIG fan.

I CAN NOT believe we made this flight, in all honesty. I made it with literally one minute left to spare. In fact, both times I was cutting it extremely short! I swear I have angels…and/or perhaps I am just extremely lucky sometimes. Fortunately, we were able to recruit Marc’s incredible girlfriend (Sweet, Charismatic, Freelance Artist & Native of SAN FRANCISCO), Haejin. 

She gave me GREAT advice re: my upcoming to the Bay. Apparently, I will be looking into living in “Mission” and CERTAINLY NOT Tenderloin (“TL”) for housing soon. As if it weren’t crazy enough that Marc’s girlfriend is from San Francisco, I was definitely “flipando” when HE nonchalantly enlightened me of his forthcoming move to San Francisco! What?!

In any case, for those of you looking to book your flight to this incredible city PLEASE (I beg you) DO NOT fly into Paris Beauvais unless you have a benevolent friend to come collect you J The miniscule airport (well, relative to Barajas and even VLC) is ONE hour from our magical destination. Poor Marc, a world traveler himself, who by the way is the former “student” and current lifetime crony of mutual friend, Fritz Chery. Yes, he is a sweetheart. I recognize this is quite the understatement, but I am sure you get the picture.

Meet Marc Simon! Indeed, he is "The Man", Fritz.

Meet Marc Simon: One of the most down-to-Earth individuals I’ve ever met. What a GREAT host and Cultural Embassador!

This week has been NON STOP; no regrets here despite supreme exhaustion, which I mostly attribute to general travel. Needless to say, 2 days (..or was it “2 weeks”, Marc?) in Paris is simply NOT enough. I can’t even begin to think of the number of full days I would need to fully appreciate all of the expositions offered at The Louvre & oh my goodness, all of the Museums! I MUST give my host an immense amount of credit – We quite literally covered a lot of ground within the past few days. “You make me walk SO much, Addie.”

A few favorite memories: (I am undeniably smitten.)

The Arc de Triumph

Open Market: (I love these!) Fruit was MUCH pricier. I appreciate Valencia veggies and fruit prices! 

 I’d never seen so many types of cheese in my life! 

DELICIOUS PITA!

Jewish Quarter: Highly recommened by Margaux and Haejin!  How much I miss Hummus & Babaganoush!! My goal is to learn how to make these dishes before I leave Europe. A must.

I stumbled upon a PAELLA Stand in the middle of Paris

Guess who!?

ALMOST THERE - on the way up to Montmarte (Personal Favorite).
It was indeed a hike.

Akim, the "Moroccan Prince", and I

-           

One could spend a MONTH just visiting The Louvre!

The Renowned Notre Dame (Am I the only one who immediately thinks of the Disney Movie?)

-         

Is this not the most beautiful "garden" you've ever seen, people?

I realized more than ever in France that I definitely do not have the “knack” for learning languages, particularly French. Me cuesta mucho.  My French teacher in elementary school would NOT be pleased. No, she would be ashamed! Sorry Akim and Marc. I tried! J And Don’t you worry, I will continue practicing (“ooo”/ “ouu”).

I couldn’t be more grateful. 

Thank you millionfold, Marc, Fritz, Heijin and Akim!